Know more about Zardozi Embroidery
Indian embroideries are of many types, each one as mesmerizing as the other one, exploiting colours and designs that we savour without wishing to find out where the design originated from. If we carefully examine Indian embroidery work, we can always make out the differences in them without much ado. These differences are what make them unique amongst the whole lot. The international apparel market has seen a steep rise in the demand for Indian embroidery garments. The artisans of India earn foreign exchange with their tradecraft being sold at high prices in western countries. Many high profile designers feature these garments in their collection. We are going to discuss a few of them and try and explore the reasons why they have their particular forms.
This is an ancient form of embroidery that involves gold or silver zari threads and is thus also known as metal embroidery. However, now a days this is accomplished with coloured metal threads. The word zardozi is actually a combination of two Persian words “Zar” and “Dozi”which stand for gold and embroidery. It thus, not hard to fathom that the art originated in Persia and was brought to India by Moghuls. Initially it was accomplished with real metal threads of gold and silver. Clothes of the rich and royal adorned this embroidery alongwith wall hangings, bedsheets etc. There are also applications of pearl and precious stones that are done in conjunction with this embroidery to produce a stunning look. The embroidery is primarily done on silk, crepe, brocade, and velvet fabrics. Zardozi embroidery took a downturn during Aurangzeb’s rule. It gained ground only after Independence.
Zari embroidery which is accomplished with a crotchet hook, is a precursor of the zardozi work; which is an extension of the former. The embroidery when completed gives the appearance of a chain stitch. Items that go in the zardozi work are beads, dabka, coiled wires, sequins etc.
Zardozi is accomplished with coiled metal wires studded with stones, beads, etc and is therefore only done on heavy fabrics that are thick and heavy like silk, Crepe, satin, velvet etc. and thus the fabrics chosen are also royal and expensive. The design that is required to be done is first traced on the fabric and then transferred on to the wooden frame. After this the embroidery is commenced with single tread and needle which is used to sew in the cloth. The art demands great patience and skill to achieve it. Expertise is required to do it properly.
Earlier zardozi was found on the garments and bed spreads of the rich and royal only. But now it has come within easy reach of the common man. Clothes with zardozi are seen in marriage parties and have thus become an integral part of the cultural reality of the society. Apart from wearable garments the embroidery is also found on cushion covers, table cloths, wall hangings, fabric purses etc. The embroidery is a costly affair.
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